By Helen Clark and Karryn Miller 3 October, 2011
Vietnamese cuisine doesn't
win any points for complexity. Many of the most popular dishes can be made just
as well on the side of the road as in a top-end restaurant.
But it’s precisely this
simplicity, the subtle variations by region and the fresh ingredients that keep
us pulling up a plastic stool for more.
What list of Vietnamese
cuisine would be complete without pho? It’s almost impossible to walk a block
in Vietnam’s
major cities without bumping into a crowd of hungry patrons slurping noodles at
a makeshift pho stand.
This simple staple
consisting of a salty broth, fresh rice noodles, a sprinkling of herbs and
chicken or beef, features predominately in the local diet -- and understandably
so. It’s cheap, tasty, and widely available at all hours.
2. Cha ca
Hanoians consider cha ca
to be so exceptional that there is a street in the capital dedicated to these
fried morsels of fish.
This namesake alley is
home to Cha Ca La Vong, which serves sizzling chunks of fish seasoned with
garlic, ginger, turmeric and dill on a hot pan tableside.
Cha Ca La Vong may be the
busiest but the service is a bit gruff and the food overpriced. Instead make
your way to Duong Than in Hanoi’s
Hoan Kiem district, where you’ll find plenty of more affordable but just as
tasty options
3. Banh xeo
A good banh xeo is a
crispy crepe bulging with pork, shrimp, and bean sprouts, plus the garnish of
fresh herbs that are characteristic of most authentic Vietnamese dishes.
To enjoy one like a local,
cut it into manageable slices, roll it up in rice paper or lettuce leaves and
dunk it in whatever special sauce the chef has mixed up for you.
Banh Xeo 46A has mixed
reviews but judging by the crowds that swarm there each night they must be
doing something right. Banh Xeo, 46A Dinh Cong Trang, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC)
4. Cao lau
This pork noodle dish from
Hoi An is a bit like the various cultures that visited the trading port at its
prime. The thicker noodles are similar to Japanese udon, the crispy won-ton
crackers and pork are a Chinese touch, while the broth and herbs are clearly
Vietnamese.
Authentic cau lao is made
only with water drawn from the local Ba Le well.
Try Morning Glory, 106
Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An; +84 510 224 1555
5. Rau muong
Some might call it river
weed -- with good reason -- but that doesn’t stop the masses from
scarfing down platefuls of morning glory, usually stir-fried and seasoned with
slithers of potent garlic.
Rau muong is
common at Vietnamese restaurants and beer gardens.
Chung Den Bia Hoi,
18B Hang Cot, Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi
6. Nem ran/cha gio
Vietnam’s bite-sized crunchy
spring rolls might not enjoy the same popularity as their healthier fresh
equivalent, but they deserve a special mention.
The crispy shell with a
soft veggie and meat filling dunked in a tangy sauce gets the gastronomic
juices flowing before a main course. In the north these parcels go by the name
nem ran while southerners call them cha gio.
1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem
district, Hanoi
7. Goi cuon
These light and healthy
fresh spring rolls are a wholesome choice when you’ve been indulging in too
much of the fried food in Vietnam.
The translucent parcels
are first packed with salad greens, a slither of meat or seafood and a layer of
coriander, before being neatly rolled and dunked in Vietnam’s favorite condiment --
fish sauce.
Quan An Ngon, 18 Phan Boi
Chau, Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi;
+84 43 942 8162
8. Bun bo Hue
Central
Vietnam’s take on noodles caters to carnivores with its meaty broth and
piles of beef and pork. The thick slippery rice noodles also make for a
heartier meal than noodles found in the north and south.
You don’t have to go to
Hue to enjoy this dish; if in Ho Chi Minh City
try Tib Express, 162 NguyenDinh Chieu, District 3, HCMC; +84 8
3822 5038
9. Banh khot
This dainty variation of a
Vietnamese pancake has all the same tasty ingredients but is a fraction of the
size. Each banh knot can be scoffed in one ambitious but satisfying mouthful.
The crunchy outside is
made using coconut milk and the filling usually consists of shrimp, mung beans,
and spring onions with a dusting of dried shrimp flakes on top.
Co Ba Vung Tau, 59B Cao
Thang, District 3, HCMC
10. Ga tan
Got the sniffles? Opt
for ga tan, a broth that’s Vietnam’s answer to the proverbial
cup of chicken noodle soup. Sure it’s not quite how your mother used to make
it, with its greenish tinge from the herbs and hunks of chicken parts, but it’s
worth a try if you’re needing a Vietnamese tonic.
Try this at one of the
street stalls on Hanoi’s Tong Duy Tan aka Pho Am Thuc,
or “Food Street”),Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi
11.
Nom hoa chuoi
Vietnam’s banana flower salad
packs a much bigger punch than a typical plate of mixed greens.
Banana flowers (thick
purple lumps that will later turn into bunches of bananas) are peeled and
thinly sliced then mixed with green papaya, carrots, and cilantro along with
chicken and a heavy-handed pour of a salty fish sauce dressing and crunchy
peanuts.
Highway 4 restaurant, 3
Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi;
+84 4 3926 4200
12. Bun bo nam bo
This bowl of noodles comes
sans broth, keeping the ingredients from becoming sodden and the various
textures intact. The tender slices of beef mingle with crunchy peanuts and bean
sprouts, and are flavored with fresh herbs, crisp dried shallots, and a splash
of fish sauce and fiery chili pepper.
67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem
district, Hanoi
13. Hoa qua dam
This chunky blend of fresh
tropical fruit in a cup is the perfect local treat when the heat of Vietnamese
summer starts to wear you down. It could be considered a healthy alternative to
ice cream -- if you stick to the shaved ice variation -- but for the full
experience it’s best had with diabetes-inducing condensed milk mixed in.
15B To
Tich, Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi
14. Pho cuon
Pho cuon packages the
flavors of pho and goi cuon in one neat little parcel. This Hanoi take on fresh spring rolls uses sheets
of uncut pho noodles to encase fried beef, herbs and lettuce or cucumber.
The best place to find
them is on Ngu Xa island on the capital’s Truc Bach Lake -- specifically at 26
Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh district, Hanoi
15. Ga nuong
KFC may be everywhere in Vietnam these
days, but skip the fast food for the local version. Honey marinated then
grilled over large flaming barbecues, the chicken legs, wings and feet served
are unusually tender, while the skin stays crispy but not dry.
Viet Ha on Ly Van Phuc,
Dong Da district, Hanoi
16. Pho xao
Pho xao may just be a
slightly healthier take on my xao -- but the beauty is in the details. The
flat, smoother pho noodle doesn’t crisp up like its pre-boiled instant cousin.
When done well the outer
edges acquire a browned crunchiness, whilst the center stays soft and
glutinous. This dish tastes best with a fried egg and seasoned with chili or
soy sauce.
26 Nguyen Khac Hieu, Hoan
Kiem district, Hanoi
17. Ca phe trung
Vietnamese “egg coffee” is
technically a drink but we prefer to put it in the dessert category. The creamy
soft, meringue-like egg white foam perched on the dense Vietnamese coffee will
have even those who don’t normally crave a cup of joe licking their spoons with
delight.
In Hanoi,
follow the tiny alley between the kitschy souvenir shops at 11 Hang
Gai into the clearing, and up several flights of increasingly dicey stairs
to pair your ca phe trung with an unbeatable view of Hoan Kiem Lake.
18. Bo la lot
Vietnamese are masters of
wrapping their food. Bo la lot is neither raw nor deep-fried, but flamed on an
open grill to soften the exterior and infuse the betel leaf’s peppery aroma
into the ground beef inside.
3T Quan Nuong, 29-31 Ton
That Thiep, District 1, HCMC; +84 8 3821 1631
19. Xoi
Savory sticky rice is less
of an accompaniment to meals in Vietnam,
more a meal itself. The glutinous staple comes with any number of mix-ins (from
slithers of chicken, or pork to fried or preserved eggs), but almost always
with a scattering of dried shallots on top.
Xoi Yen, Nguyen Huu Huan,
Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi
20. Banh cuon
These rolled up rice flour
pancakes are best when served piping hot, still soft and delicate. Although
seemingly slender and empty they have a savory filling of minced pork and
mushrooms.
Zest is also added by
dunking the slippery parcels in a fishy dipping sauce.
Corner of Cong Quynh and
Pham Ngu Lao, District 1, HCMC
21. Ca tim kho to
Eggplant alone tends not
to get us excited. Although when it’s diced and sautéed in a clay pot along
with tomatoes, soy sauce, sugar, and (depending on the recipe) minced meat, the
once bland vegetable redeems itself.
Pineapple Restaurant, 35
Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi;
+ 84 43 935 2316
22. Bot chien
Saigon’s favorite streetside
snack, bot chien, is popular with both the afterschool and the after-midnight
crowd. Chunks of rice flour dough are fried in a large wok until crispy and
then an egg is broken into the mix.
Once cooked it’s served
with slices of papaya, shallots and green onions, before more flavor is added
with pickled chili sauce and rice vinegar.
Nighttime food vendors
sell this at the corners of Pham Ngu Lao and Cong Quynh, District 1, HCMC
stomach pains.
23. Bun dau mam tom
This plain-looking tofu
and noodle dish is served with mam tom sauce -- the Vegemite of Vietnam. The
pungent purple dipping sauce is used to flavor the slabs of deep-fried fofu that
are at the core of the meal.
Corner of Hang Be and Hang
Bac, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi
24. Banh goi
These pockets of
deep-fried goodness are often described as the equivalent of a Cornish pastry
or as a Vietnamese samosa, depending on the nationality of the person
explaining.
Inside the crispy exterior
you’ll find that it’s similar to neither description, with its filling of
finely minced pork, mushrooms and vermicelli noodles.
52 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem
district, Hanoi;
+84 4 3828 5922
This simple meal is the
Saigonese equivalent of bun cha -- with rice in place of noodles. A tender pork
cutlet is barbecued over hot coals to give it a rich, smoky flavor, and laid
over the fluffy white com.
Com Tam Cali has a number of branches across HCMC.
Try Tam Cali 1
at 32 Nguyen Trai, District 1, HCMC; +84 8 3925 2222
26. Chao
With its thick and creamy
texture Vietnam’s
rice porridge is the best pick when your queasy stomach can’t handle much else.
If you want to jazz it up you can always add slices of chicken, fish, beef,
duck or pork ribs, along with a sprinkling of herbs and shallots.
Chao Ca specializes in
fish chao, 213 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi; +84 43 829 5281
27. Bo luc lac
Cubes of beef are tossed
around a steaming wok with garlic, pepper, and some vegetables to make shaking
beef. There’s nothing special about the beef that makes it shaking.
The name is just a literal
translation that refers to the process of mixing the beef around while cooking.
Nha Hang Ngon, 160
Pasteur, District 1, HCMC; +84 8 3827 7131
28. Hat de nong
The smell of chestnuts
roasting on an open fire can bring back fond memories of Christmas carols --
until a moped transporting a giant blow-up Santa whizzes by. Pick the street
vendor with the most enticing smell.
To Tich, Hoan Kiem
district, Hanoi
29. Banh uot thit
nuong
It’s all about the
marinade when it comes to the grilled pork in fresh rice paper rolls that are
popular in central Vietnam.
The typical mixture coats
the meat in a blend of sugar, salt, chili, lemongrass and fish sauce. Cilantro,
basil and mint are added when it’s served up to add some green to the
appetizer.
Morning Glory, 106 Nguyen
Thai Hoc, Hoi An; +84 510 224 1555
30. Bun cha
Pho might be Vietnam’s most
famous dish but bun cha is the top choice when it comes to lunchtime
in the capital.
Just look for the clouds
of meaty smoke after 11 a.m. when street-side restaurants start grilling up
small patties of seasoned pork and slices of marinated pork belly over a
charcoal fire. Once they’re charred and crispy the morsels are served with a
large bowl of a fish sauce-heavy broth, a basket of herbs and a helping of rice
noodles.
Hanoi’s most famous
bun cha outlet is 1
Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi
31. Banh mi
The French may have
brought with them the baguette, but Vietnam takes it to a different
level. How exactly depends on what end of the country you’re in.
In the north chefs stick
to the basic elements of carbohydrate, fat and protein—bread, margarine and
pâté—but head south and your banh mi may contain a more colorful
combination of cheese, cold cuts, pickled vegetables, sausage, fried egg, fresh
cilantro and chili sauce.
One of the better baguette
vendors in Saigon sets up shop beside the Cherry mini-mart on
DoQuang Dao, District 1, HCMC
32. Lau
Eating this hodgepodge
hotpot dish is a communal affair with everyone digging in to the oversized
boiling pot. We’ve found that just about anything can (and will) go into this
soup from tofu to frogs.
It’s best to stick to one
main protein rather than opting for the mix of meat, poultry and seafood
together.
On the northern edge of Hanoi’s Truc Bach lake
you’ll find a number of restaurant staff crossing the street to deliver lau to
lake-side diners
33. Banh bao
Steamed pork buns aren’t
traditionally Vietnamese but that doesn’t stop the spongy rolls from being sold
by street vendors and in traditional Vietnamese restaurants.
The best buns have a hard
boiled quail egg buried within the minced meat, while the cheaper ones come
without any filling at all. Remember the lower the price the less stuffing, so
you might not be getting the good deal you thought you were.
Often sold by wandering
vendors patrolling Hanoi’s
Old Quarter at all hours. In the south try Banh Bao Tho Phat, 78 Nguyen
Tri Phuong, District 5, HCMC
34. Com rang
Fried rice may not be the
most adventurous option, but sometimes you just want some familiar grub done
right. Baby sized chunks of meat and colorful vegetables are mixed with soy and
fish sauce in a wok streetside to create a rice dish that is still moist but
slightly smoky.
Make it Vietnamese by
supplementing with Bia Hanoi.
Try one of the vendors on
Tong Duy Tan (aka "Food
Street"), Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi
35. Bo bit tet
Vietnam’s equivalent to steak and
eggs fills the void when you’re hankering for some greasy pub tucker. The thin
flank steak is usually served with eggs, thick potato wedges, and Vietnamese
meatballs on a sizzling cast iron plate.
Le Hong, 489/29/18 Huynh
Van Banh, District 3, HCMC
36. Com chay
Com chay refers to two
things in Vietnam:
vegetarian food, or Vietnam’s
homemade rice crispies that are popular with children. Unlike the sweet treats
in the United States, Vietnam’s
version of a crispy comes with meat instead of marshmallows.
Vietnam’s vegetarian restaurants
use mock meats to create all the traditional dishes and usually do a pretty
good job. Although some places include artificial creations we would rather not
try. Fake rubbery snails anyone?
Try Hoa Dang vegetarian
restaurant, 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, District 1, HCMC; +84 8 3820 9702
37. Che
This dessert can be served
in either a bowl or a glass. The latter is the more enticing option with the
visible layers of bean jelly, coconut milk, fruit, and ice.
Best had when you’re
craving something sweet on a scorching day in Saigon.
Nha Hang Ngon, 160
Pasteur, District 1, HCMC; +84 8 3827 7131
38. My xao bo
Mix noodles with a dollop
of oil, then add beef, onions, garlic, morning glory and some tomato for color
and you have a platter of my xao bo. The whole dish takes about as long to make
as instant noodles -- but oh so much more flavor.
Any bia hoi establishment
serves this dish, but the eateries on Tang Bat Ho, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, have perfected it
39. Dau phu sot
ca chua
The English translation of
“tofu in tomato sauce” doesn’t really do this dish justice. The slabs
of deep-fried soy are doused in a rich fresh tomato and spring onion coating,
and seasoned with a speckle of fresh herbs.
Chim Sao at
65 Ngo Hue, Hai Ba Trung district, Hanoi; +84 43 976 0633
40. Canh bun
Another hearty soup that’s
high on the lunchtime agenda, this is a crab and morning glory noodle soup.
Canh bun is similar to the more well-known bun rieu crab soup, but has a small
handful of variations -- including the type of noodle used.
Look for street food
vendors with Canh Bun on handwritten signs surrounded by lunchtime crowds, or
visit Bun Saigon at 73 Ly Tu Trong, District 1, HCMC
