Vietnam travel destination 31: Discover Bac Ninh attractions

Dong Ho Painting Village (Lang Tranh Dong Ho)

Dong Ho Village with its famous paintings has become an aesthetic symbol in Vietnam culture. Located to the left side of Duong River, Dong Ho stood for centuries making their unique art work. From over 100 families in the 1950s, currently there are only a handful of families still making the traditional craft. Most villagers have now turned to joss paper making, since the regulation has relaxed and again allowed for religious practices that were once deemed “unfit of the revolutionary”. The families of Nguyen Dang Che and Nguyen Huu Sam both run their own galleries and employ a number of workers. To everyone’s relief, the essence still remains and thrives.

Dong Ho paintings are places for artists to reflect their wishes for lucks and their perception of everyday life in the village. Common themes that are found consistently include animals (which has goodluck symbol on them), everyday life (such as Jealous Fight or A Market Day), and folk tales (Saint Giong or The Frog Teacher). The paper used for the painting is made from bark tree so that the texture can retain color for a long time. Each family develops their own mold for the painting. Each mold are then replicated and filled with a separate share of color. The paintings are made by stamping the mold into the paper, one at a time to add more and more color to the picture. 

Dong Ho paintings are simple, meaningful and created for the mass. Patrons use to come from agricultural and low-income families, some of them are illiterate and can not afford other more exquisite art works. But the meaning is the paintings is, by no means, sub-par. It reflects both reality and dream of the people.

Dong Ho these days has also expanded its tradition, and many new products have taken form, among them xyloglyphics and combined-medium works.

Visitor information

A visit to Dong Ho family can take 3-4 hours. For the true art-enthusiasts, skip the amateur Nguyen Dang Che’s tourist-exploiting mill and go sit down and have a talk to the famous but elusive Nguyen Huu Sam or his son Nguyen Huu Qua, who are both masters of their trade. 

Viem Xa Village

Travelers coming to Bac Ninh might hear local people tell them that if they do not visit Viem Xa Village, they miss half of Bac Ninh. The village is not just a rural residential area located in Yen Phong, Bac Ninh, but most importantly, it is the original birthplace of Quan Ho folk singing, one of the most fascinating cultural activities that has allured numerous generations of Vietnamese people for a thousand years. No one knows exactly when Quan Ho was invented, but it has become an indispensable part of daily lives of local residents.

Most researchers agree that Viem Xa village has been established for more than 2,000 years with various historical relics that have been conserved until today. One of them is Cung Temple including Cung Shrine and Tien Well (Fairy Well) that is situated at the front of the village and right on the foot of Kim Son Mountain. However, the most attractive and famous relics at Viem Xa Village is Vua Ba Temple where Duc Vua Ba, the creator of Quan Ho, is worshipped. This is actually not a charming place with giant structure, but still a cultural center of the village where numerous traditional activities of not only Viem Xa but also the whole Quan Ho’ area around are organized.

On February 6th and 7th annually (Lunar Calendar), local residents at Viem Xa Village excitedly hold a special festival at Vua Ba Temple. The event is meant to worship and recall the merit of Duc Vua Ba as well as to create an interesting and joyful time for local people before difficult year ahead. An easy-recognizable point is that all activities at this festival are related to Quan Ho such as singing Quan Ho competition, Quan Ho performance or rites to creator of this singing genre. It can be said that Duc Vua Ba Temple festival is the biggest and most uproarious event dedicated to Quan Ho in Vietnam.

Dau Pagoda

Location

Dau Pagoda, located in Thuan Thanh district, Bac Ninh province, is considered the oldest Buddhist pagoda in Vietnam according to researchers. The pagoda is about 1 hour away from Hanoi Old Quarter, making it easy for a morning trip off the city noise.

History

In the past, the region where Dau Pagoda was built today was the capital of Giao Chi district, the political, economic and cultural center of Vietnam. About 1,800 years ago, the Indian monk named Khau Da La came to this area to do the missionary work and founded the first Buddhism center in Vietnam called Luy Lau. There were many pagodas, citadels and market built in the area at that time and Dau Pagoda was among them.

As Dau Pagoda was the biggest pagoda in the Buddhist center region, many monks from either India or China came there to do research and spread Buddhism to the local residents.

This ancient pagoda has undergone many restorations and expansion, with the largest construction undertaken under the Ly and Tran dynasty. Going through the fluctuation of history, although many structures in the region were destroyed, the pagoda still exists and preserves the traditional oriental architecture style especially the wood block aged about 1752 years old and two bronzes' Xa Loi bodies of Vu Khac Minh and Vu Khac Truong monk.

Architecture

The yard in front of the pagoda hosts a three stories tower name Hoa Phong. The tower originally had six stories but it was partly destroyed. Inside the tower, there are a number of valuable artifacts such as a large bell dating back in Canh Thinh Dynasty (1793), a big bronze gong casted in Ming Mang Dynasty (1817) and several statues of Gods in Buddhist legends.

Visitor Information

Since its inception, Dau Pagoda has hosted the annual Dau Pagoda Festival on April 8th in lunar calendar. This is also the biggest Buddhism festival of the northern region of Vietnam. In 2012, the festival will fall on April 28^th.

The oriental architecture style and the antiques at the pagoda will absolutely impress any visitor. Moreover, it is also a great chance for those who want to discover and experience the traditional culture of Vietnam, and a must visit for Buddhists.

The best way to get to Chua Dau is to rent a car with a driver, who already knows the way and will take care of parking issues. You can also ride a motorbike, by following highway 5 and turning to Highway 1B. Chua Dau is about 35km from Hanoi downtown.

Phu Lang Pottery Village (Phu Lang)

Phu Lang has become a brand name like Bat Trang in terms of pottery and ceramics products. However, thanks to its distance from the urban centre, much of the pristine scenery as well as traditional production have moved forward for centuries without being over-commercialized. Through times, there are only a few families left who continued their tradition. The yard is packed with firewood and clay. Indoors, there are a large collection of pottery wares, from flower vases to tea pots. Bat Trang is special by its simplicity: from the decorative style to the natural brown color of clay. Villagers are very friendly: they will take you in and give you a quick tour to see how their every activities unfold.

Dinh Bang Village Temple

Dinh Bang village is best known to be the birthplace of Ly Cong Uan- the Great King who first chose Hanoi as the capital in 1010. Dinh Bang village nowadays still retains much of a country side feel, with relics from Ly dynasty. The temple of the village occupies a central position both physically and spiritually in villagers’ mind. Its architecture reflects typical model of Northern Vietnam pagoda, with Lim wood being used as the main material and no color is added. The temple honours God of Land, God of Water and God of Farm. It is a place where village residents come to show their respect to these Gods, as well as praying for a new fruitful crop.

Do Temple (Den Do)

Do Temple is located in Dinh Bang village, an area known for its religious and cultural traditions. The temple was established to commemorate the 8 kings of Ly Dynasty: Ly Cong Uan, Ly Thai To, Ly Thai Tong, Ly Thanh Tong, Ly Nhan Tong, Ly Than Tong, Ly anh Tong, Ly Cao Tong and Ly Hue Tong. Surrounding the typical Northern pagoda architecture is a green area covered in trees and fresh air. At the front of the temple, like most other pagodas, there is a pond to keep the wood from drying out the feel.

Do Temple can easily be combined into a day trip with other attractions in Bac Ninh such as Dinh Bang Temple, Dong Ho Village. You can reach the temple either by riding your own bike or arranging a tour with a taxi company, which should not cost more than $60.

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